Chefs worldwide speak out to save Pacific bluefin tuna

Leading chefs on five continents have pledged to keep Pacific bluefin tuna off their menus until there’s effective international action to manage the fishery and reverse a precipitous decline in the population.

Chef Alex Atala of Brazil: “We are not living within our means when it comes to Pacific bluefin tuna.”

Nearly 200 prominent chefs and culinary leaders from around the world—including Alex Atala of Brazil, James Beard Award nominee Michael Cimarusti of the United States and Annabel Langbein of New Zealand—say Pacific Rim nations must act immediately to recover Pacific bluefin tuna.

Bluefin tunas are among the planet’s most iconic and prized fish. In recent decades, global demand for Pacific bluefin tuna has driven the population down to a critical level—just 2.6 percent of its historic abundance, significantly lower than those of the two other bluefin tuna species, Atlantic and Southern bluefin tunas, and lower than all other assessed tuna species.

The chef pledge comes as fishing nations charged with securing the future of Pacific bluefin tuna prepare to meet in Busan, South Korea from August 28 to September 1, to craft a new recovery plan in the face of growing international criticism that the current plan falls far short of what’s needed.

The time for action

Michael Cimarusti, USA: “I cannot in good conscience serve Pacific bluefin tuna. ” Photo by Noe Montes

Cimarusti, chef-owner of celebrated Los Angeles restaurant Providence, says this apex ocean predator is truly at a crossroads.

“Chefs have an obligation to offer seafood dishes that promote a healthy, diverse living ocean,” he said. “I cannot in good conscience serve Pacific bluefin tuna. There will be time to enjoy it again when their numbers are back. And that will take an immediate, strong international commitment to better manage the fishery.”

Atala, whose São Paulo restaurant D.O.M. is ranked among finest in the world, said: “In my kitchen, I celebrate indigenous food. And with that comes a commitment to a fundamental philosophy: You live within your means. We are not living within our means when it comes to Pacific bluefin tuna. We are emptying the ocean of these magnificent fish. The world has an obligation, right now, to take action to allow them to recover. We owe it to future generations.”

A challenge to nations

Over 190 chefs and culinary leaders around the world have signed a pledge not to serve or promote the consumption of this valuable and imperiled species until the nations in charge of its management take meaningful action.

“The culinary community has a key interest in the recovery of all bluefin tunas, and particularly Pacific bluefin tuna,” the chefs stated. “Preserving healthy populations of bluefin tunas in the ocean is a prerequisite to bringing these delicious fish back to the menu.”

International fisheries management authorities will meet in South Korea starting August 28, to discuss creating a science-based management plan to recover Pacific bluefin tuna. Photo courtesy NOAA

At the Aquarium, we’ve been engaged in the conservation of Pacific bluefin tuna for decades. Our Seafood Watch program has long rated it as a species to avoid, due to overfishing. For nearly two decades, our scientific research team has been studying and tagging the fish, which make epic trans-Pacific migrations. They have recently found new evidence supporting the conclusion that science-based management—on both sides of the Pacific—is critical to the species’ survival.

Businesses lead by example

Chefs know that without sustainable management of the Pacific bluefin fishery, these delicious fish won’t be around for future generations to enjoy. Heads of the food-service industry echo their concerns.

“It is time for governments to follow the lead of the private sector, fulfill their commitments, adhere to the science, and recover and maintain Pacific bluefin tuna at a sustainable level,” said Maisie Ganzler, chief strategy and brand officer for Palo Alto, Calif.-based Bon Appétit Management Company, an award-winning leader in sustainable food-service management.

“All of the progress that businesses have made contrasts dramatically with the complete inaction and lack of ambition by nations to halt the precipitous decline of Pacific bluefin tuna,” Ganzler said. “If they were accountable the way we are in the private sector, they would be out of business.”

Pacific bluefin tuna can grow as big as lions and travel as fast as gazelles. Photo by Monterey Bay Aquarium/Randy Wilder

Annabel Langbein, a globally renowned culinary author and television show host, recalls: “I grew up eating fresh fish my grandfather caught with hook and line. Sadly, today many of our favorite fish species are under real pressure—with Pacific bluefin tuna at the top of the list. To ensure our kids and their kids will still be able to enjoy the pleasures of fishing and fresh seafood, we must act to support sustainable fishing practices.”

It’s a personal issue for her, because some Pacific bluefin tuna feed and spawn in the waters of her home country, New Zealand. “And they are important to so many cultures,” she adds. “I call upon my colleagues around the Pacific to speak out now for these incredible fish.”

Other chefs and culinary leaders endorsing the pledge include Hawaii’s Ed Kenney, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of Los Angeles, Andre Ahn of Brazil, along with Rick Bayless of Chicago, Virginia Willis of Atlanta, Nancy Silverton of Los Angeles, Dan Barber of New York, and Rick Moonen of Las Vegas.

“In the Hawaiian language, the word aloha represents a spirit—of love, of peace, of respect and mercy,” Kenney said. “When followed by ‘oe, it means goodbye. Let’s have aloha for Pacific bluefin tuna, the magnificent and powerful spirits that share a vast ocean with us—without saying aloha ‘oe.”

Here’s the full list of chefs and culinary leaders who have signed the Pacific bluefin tuna pledge (last updated August 22, 2017). Lead signatories are listed in bold.

1. Andre Ahn, Chef, Restaurante Karú, Brazil
2. Alex Atala, Chef, D.O.M., Brazil
3. Michael Cimarusti, Chef/Owner, Providence, Connie & Ted’s, USA
4. Susan Feniger, Chef/Owner, Border Grill Restaurant Group, USA
5. Ed Kenney, Chef/Owner, Town, Kaimuki Superette, Mud Hen Water, Mahina & Sun’s, USA
6. Annabel Langbein, Al media, New Zealand
7. Mary Sue Milliken, Chef/Owner, Border Grill Restaurant Group, USA
8. Ali Bahmad, Chef, WelTec School of Hospitality, New Zealand
9. Greg Baker, Chef and Owner, The Refinery/Fodder & Shine, USA
10. William Dissen, Executive Chef and Owner, The Market Place Restaurant, USA
11. Hari Pulapaka, Executive Chef and Co-Owner, Cress Restaurant, USA
12. Matthew Beaudin, Executive Chef, Monterey Bay Aquarium, USA
13. Virginia Willis, Chef and Content Creator, Virginia Willis Culinary Enterprises, Inc, USA
14. Jennifer Sherman, General Manager, Chez Panisse, USA
15. Andrea Reusing, Chef/Owner, Lantern Inc., USA
16. Sarah Forman, Culinary Manager, Lyon Media Group, USA
17. Kerry Heffernan, Executive Chef, Grand Banks, Pilot, Island Oyster, Seaworthy, USA
18. Michael Leviton, Founder, Region Foodworks LLC, USA
19. Sara Jenkins, Chef/Owner, Nina June, USA
20. Nathan Lyon, Emmy-nominated Culinary Host, Lyon Media Group, USA
21. Kevin Fonzo, Chef, The Kevin Fonzo Foundation, USA
22. Bun Lai, Chef, Miya’s, USA
23. Jeffrey Deloff, Executive Chef, Threepenny Café, USA
24. James Baselici, Executive Chef, Waterline Marina Resort, USA
25. Kristofor Lofgren, CEO, Sustainable Restaurant Group, USA
26. Cory Schisler, Creative Director, Sustainable Restaurant Group, USA
27. Chris Paquette, Culinary Director, Bamboo Sushi and Sustainable Restaurant Group, USA
28. Samuel Monsour, Executive Chef, Preux & Proper, USA
29. Michael Rosacci, Corporate Chef, Tony’s Markets, USA
30. Steve Phelps, Chef/Owner, Indigenous, USA
31. Colin Moody, Executive Chef, Monterey Peninsula Country Club, USA
32. Rick Bayless, Chef, Frontera, USA
33. Paul Fehribach, Chef/Owner, Big Jones, USA
34. Cindy Pawlcyn, Chef/Owner, CP Cooks, USA
35. Jon Matsubara, Executive Chef, Bloomingdales, USA
36. Elizabeth Binder, Chef/Owner, Hand-Crafted Catering, USA
37. Evan Hanczor, Chef/Partner, Egg, USA
38. Eric Greenspan, Executive Chef/ Owner, The Roof On Wilshire, USA
39. Kim Muller, Principal, B/O/T/H Consulting, USA
40. Fedele Bauccio, CEO, Bon Appétit Management Company, USA
41. Keith Froggett, Chef/Partner, Scaramouche Restaurant and The Glen Tavern, Canada
42. Bruce Sherman, Chef/Partner, North Pond Restaurant, USA
43. Lee Anne Wong, Chef/Owner, Koko Head Café, USA
44. Crystal  Azzarello, Owner, Luna Blu Restaurant, USA
45. Matthew Bolton, Executive Chef, InterContinental The Clement Monterey, USA
46. Mark Noguchi, Chef, The Pili Group, USA
47. Kristine Kidd, Owner/Editor/Writer, Kristinekidd.com, USA
48. Narsai David, Owner, Narsai’s, USA
49. Sarah Schafer, Executive Chef, Irving Street Kitchen, USA
50. Paul Rogalski, Culinary Director, Rouge/ Bistro Rouge, Canada
51. Patricia Unterman, Chef/Owner, Hayes Street Grill San Francisco, USA
52. Rochelle Huppin, Entrepreneur, Rosie’s Goods, USA
53. Cindy Walter, Co-Owner, Passionfish, USA
54. Ted Walter, Owner, Passionfish, USA
55. David Rashty, Executive Chef, Babcock Ranch, USA
56. Sheila Lucero, Executive Chef, Jax Fish House, USA
57. Michael Frauenheim, Director of Operations, RM Seafood, USA
58. Travis Flood, Chef/Partner, Pappas Artisanal, USA
59. Michael Goularte, Executive Chef, Galletto Ristorante, USA
60. Rick Moonen, Chef/Owner, RM Seafood, USA
61. Kajsa Alger, Chef/ Owner, Blue Window, USA
62. Annie Pettry, Executive Chef, Decca, USA
63. Nyesha J. Arrington, Owner, Arrington LLC, USA
64. Cesare Casella, Chef, Casella Salumi, USA
65. Mike Han, Sushi Chef, Mayanoki, USA
66. Jeffrey Zurofksy, CEO, No Small Plans, LLC, USA
67. Matthew Dolan, Executive Chef | Partner, Twenty Five Lusk, USA
68. Nancy Silverton, Restaurant owner, mozza group, USA
69. Dory Ford, Chef/CEO, AQUA TERRA Culinary, USA
70. Suzanne Dunaway, Author, France
71. Matthew Griffin, Chef, Fedora/Bar Sardine, USA
72. Thomasina Miers, Wahaca, UK
73. Gay Ayton, Gay Atyon PR, UK
74. Michael Corrigan, NF Networks, Scotland
75. Jason Roberts, Poku, Australia
76. Simon Cato, N/S, England
77. Nicholas A Chung, Basic Foodgroup LLC, USA
78. Dave Martin, Chef, Dave’s Homemade, USA
79. Michael Smith, Chef/Owner, Michael Smith/Extra Virgin, USA
80. Victor Gielisse, Managing Director, The Culinary Institute of America, USA
81. Barbara Mourao, Northwell, USA
82. Allen Susser, Chef, Chef Allen’s, USA
83. Travis Kight, Chief Executive Chef, SSA, USA
84. Todd Gray, Chef/Co-owner, Equinonx Restaurant, USA
85. Ed Roehr, Chef/ Restaurant Owner, Magpie, USA
86. Lisa Ekus, Owner, The Lisa Ekus Group, USA
87. Clayton Rollison, Chef/Owner, Lucky Rooster Kitchen + Bar, USA
88. Jennifer Marshall, General Manager, Monterey Bay Fish Grotto, USA
89. Nick Leahy, Chef/partner, Saltyard, USA
90. Adria Blotta, Owner, barbrix, All’Acqua Restaurant & Market Provisions, USA
91. Dave Caldiero, Corporate Chef, Town Hospitality Group, USA
92. Tom Douglas, Chef/Restauranteur, Seatown Restaurants, USA
93. Barb Parrott, General Manager, Dahlia Bakery, USA
94. Marcos Hernandez, Executive Chef, UC Berkeley Cal Dining, USA
95. Mary Ferrer, Executive Chef, UC Berkeley, USA
96. Richard Hoffmann, Executive Chef, Border Grill Mandalay Bay, USA
97. Susan Wolfla, Chef, MLB, USA
98. Josiah Citrin, Chef, Melisse Restaurant, USA
99. Jeremy Fox, Chef, Rustic Canyon, USA
100. Giovanni Lopez, Executive Chef, Border Grill DTLA, USA
101. Sean O’Donnell, Executive Chef, University of California Berkeley, USA
102. Perri Kramer, Marketing & Business Development, The Plant Cafe Organic, USA
103. Adam Perry Lang, Chef/Owner, APL Restaurant, USA
104. Taichi Kitamura, Executive Chef, Sushi a Kappo Tamura, USA
105. Daniel Carlone, Chef, Tom Douglas Restaurants, USA
106. Annie Andre, Chef, UC Berkeley, USA
107. Justin Robarge, Executive Chef, Cannery Row Brewing Company, USA
108. Andy Husbands, Chef, Tremont 647 & The Smoke Shop BBQ, USA
109. Bridget Charters, Chef Instructor, Tom Douglas Restaurants, USA
110. Tamara Murphy, Owner/chef, Terra Plata, USA
111. Lisbet Halvorsen, President, Ravishing Radish Catering, USA
112. William Whitbeck, Seafood Sales, Taylor Shellfish Farms, USA
113. Eric Tanaka, Managing Partner, Tom Douglas Restaurants, USA
114. Daisuke Ueda, Owner, Shabu Shabu Kyoto, USA
115. Lisa Nakamura, Chef, Gnocchi Bar, USA
116. Jimmy Schmidt, Chef, FoodShedExchange.com & Innovitality.com, USA
117. Shota Nakajima, Owner Chef, Adana, USA
118. Lauren Musladin, General Manager, Tom Douglas Seattle Kitchen, USA
119. David Lentz, Chef/Owner, The Hungry Cat, USA
120. Chris Dane, Chef, Spring Chicken, USA
121. Sam Baxter, Chef, Connie and Ted’s, USA
122. Gabriela Bignold, Asst Manager, Tom Douglas Restaurant, USA
123. Ron Askew, Executive Chef, Forest Ridge School of the Sacred Heart, USA
124. Michael Dei Maggi, Chef of Culinary Innovation, PF Chang’s, USA
125. Donato Poto, Restaurant owner, Providence, Connie and Ted’s, Cape Seafood and Provisions, USA
126. Douglas Katz, Owner/Chef, fire food and drink, USA
127. Steven Satterfield, Executive Chef/Owner, Miller Union, USA
128. Seth Caswell, Chef, Bar Harbor, USA
129. Nico Romo, Owner/chef, NICO oyster + seafood, USA
130. Mitch Lienhard, Chef de Cuisine, Manresa Restaurant, USA
131. Grant Smillie, Executive Director, EP&LP, USA
132. Niki, Nakayama, Chef/Owner, n/naka, USA
133. Brendan McGill, Chef/Owner, Hitchcock Restaurant Group, USA
134. Ned Bell, Executive Chef , Ocean Wise, Canada
135. Bryant Ng, Chef/Owner, Cassia, USA
136. Chris Ono, Chef De Cuisine, Esters Wine shop and bar, USA
137. Kaoru Kitamura, Engineer, King County
138. Nigel, Stephens, Executive Sous Chef, Republique, USA
139. Kim Stodel, Providence restaurant, USA
140. Sean Barrett, Cofounder, Dock to Dish, USA
141. Amy Wolf, Sous Chef, Providence Restaurant
142. Ehder Dominguez, Head Fishmonger, Cape Seafood and Provisions, USA
143. Jaime Covarrubias, executive chef, Border Grill Forum Shops, USA
144. Caleb Orth, Head Chef, Belcampo Meat Co, USA
145. Sharon Park, Sous Chef, Connie & Ted’s, USA
146. Pierre Denis, Private Chef, Wallis Annenberg, USA
147. Javier Espinoza, Executive Chef, Lucques Group, USA
148. Carole Iida-Nakayama, Sous Chef/Co-Owner, n/naka, USA
149. Dan Barber, chef, Blue Hill, USA
150. Keith Rhodes, Chef/Proprietor, Catch Restaurant, USA
151. Roxana Jullapat, Baker, Friends & Family, USA
152. Hirokazu Tawar, Chef, Kokon LLC, USA
153. Bill Telepan, Chef, Oceana Restaurant, USA
154. Keisuke Kobayashi, President, K Corporation, USA
155. Adam Cherney, Chef de Cuisine, AOC Wine Bar, USA
156. Steve Infield, General Manager, Belcampo Meat Company, USA
157. Travis Strickland, Chef, Baltaire, USA
158. Roger Harris, Managing Director, TABIC, USA
159. Shiho Yoshikawa, Chef, Sweet Rose Creamery, USA
160. Jose Martinez, Culinary Director, UC Berkeley, USA
161. Liam Bonner, General Manager, UC Berkeley, USA
162. Todd Mitgang, Chef, Crave Fishbar, USA
163. Brian Owens, Owner, Crave Fishbar, USA
164. Zahie Tellez, Chef, Platos de Cuchara, Mexico
165. Hisako Ishikura, Owner, Miyabi Sushi, USA
166. Elizabeth Falkner, Chef/Author/Artist, Falk Yeah! Productions, USA
167. Andrew Gruel, Founder, Slapfish, USA, UK, South Korea
168. Gerard Jesse, Executive chef, Seafood Shack, USA
169. Edward Kopp, Chef, Unidine, USA
170. Paul Buchanan, Chef, Primal Alchemy, USA
171. Seth Freedman, Culinary Director, PeachDish, USA
172. Sean Knight, Owner, Mustards Grill & Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, USA
173. Crisi Echiverri, Manager-Owner, Providence Restaurant, USA
174. Timothy Hollingsworth, Chef Owner, Otium, USA
175. Bob Statler, Chef/Owner, Food Island, USA
176. Brook Browning, Assistant Manager, Tom Douglas Restaurants, USA
177. Adrienne Chamberlain, Chef/General Manager, Tom Douglas Restaurants, USA
178. Jacob Cureton, Executive Chef, Atchafalaya, USA
179. Edward Lee, Chef, 610 Magnolia, USA
180. Christopher Nye, Executive Chef, Spoon and Stable, USA
181. Jonathan Dempsey, Executive Chef, Oregon Zoo, USA
182. Adam Danforth, Butcher, Danforth Butchery, USA
183. Michael Beers, Corporate Executive Chef, New England Hotel Group, USA
184. Christian Page, Chef, Cassell’s Hamburgers, USA
185. David Kinch, Owner/Executive Chef, Manresa Restaurant, USA
186. Dana Honn, Owner/Executive Chef, Carmo, USA
187. Mark Dommen, Chef/Partner, One Market Restaurant, USA
188. Justin Dean, Owner, Madhouse Vinegar Co., USA
189. Corie Brown, Co-Founder, Zester Media, USA
190. Brandon Harpster, Executive Chef, Single Barrel, USA
191. Chris Kenny, Head Chef, Necker Island, British Virgin Islands
192. Paul Froggatt, Executive Chef, Huka Lodge, New Zealand
193. Derek Wagner, Chef/Owner, Nicks on Broadway, USA
194. Todd McGuire, Program Manager, 11th Hour Racing, USA
195. Drew Deckman, Chef, DECKMAN’S en el Mogor, Mexico
196. Steve Samson, Chef/Owner, Sotto Restaurant, USA